My plan today is pretty simple. The town of Fredericksburg looked interesting on the trip down to San Antonio, so I'm going to head back there for a day or two...with a stop along the way for barbecue in the town of Lockhart.
Over the last couple of days, I've carried in a lot of stuff from the Explorer and ca to my room. So...it's taking me awhile this morning to pack and load things up.
Around 11:00, I'm on the road for the sixty mile or so ride up to Lockhart. I'm heading to a place called Smitty's...it wasn't always called Smitty's. For decades, it was known as Kreuz Market (pronounced "krites"). I first ate there with my first wife, Susan, sometime in the early 80's. One of my cooking magazines had a lengthy article on Texas barbecue, and they crowned Kreuz Market as the champs. At some point a few years ago, the owner died and left shares of the business to a daughter, a son, and other family members. They soon began a feud over the business...they went to court...they reached a settlement. Under the settlement, one part of the family got to keep the original location, but not the name. The other faction got to keep the name, but not the location. So...the "old" Kreuz Market is now called Smitty's. And the place now called Kreuz Market is in a new building on the outskirts of town. I've eaten at both...the quality of the barbecue is very similar, but the atmosphere at Smitty's is much, much better.
This is my fifth or sixth visit to Smitty's, so I know the drill. You go through the dining area to the back where the pit is located...you order your meat (for me, two slices of brisket and two sausages). They put your meat and two slices of white bread on a big piece of butcher paper. You carry this back to the dining area where you order your "sides" (potato salad or cole slaw) and your drinks (tea, pop or beer). This being "Texas" barbecue, there is no sauce...the meat takes center stage here.
And, man, is the meat ever good here. The brisket is fall-apart tender with a nice crust on the outside and the sausages are filled with a flavorful mixture of coarsely-ground beef and lots of spices. This is barbecue the way it's supposed to be. So...if your experience with barbecue is limited to "Memphis Smoke" oe even "Slo's, you owe it to yourself to travel down here and taste "the real thing".
Back in the Explorer, feeling stuffed, I take a look at my atlas...and immediately see my choice. I can drive eighty miles out of my way to spend one night in Fredericksburg...or...I can drive just forty miles and spend an extra night in Austin. I opt for Austin.
Way back in May, I made reservations to stay at the Pecan Grove RV Park in Austin...no credit card, no deposit...just "we'll see you when you get here". Reading reviews on the Internet, you see that opinion is divided on this place. Half the people loved it; half the people hated it. the people who hated it cited several factors..."quirky" residents, late night parties, and noise from nearby bars and restaurants. But, to me, these are "positives" rather than "negatives"...so my choice was clear.
Pulling into the Park, I like it right away...there are plenty of trees for shade...and I've got a great site right up front. And the location...wow...I'm within easy walking distance of two markets, five or six bars and a dozen nice restaurants. And...I'm not parked five minutes before people start coming by to say hello and invite me over for a beer. About five sites away, there's even a UM fan!!! So, OK, the best located RV Park ever!
Soon, I'm relaxing in the shade enjoying a few cold ones...and watching cable TV. Around 8:00PM, I'm actually feeling a little hungry, so I walk four minutes up the road to a place called "Chuy's"...a very popular local place for Mexican. It's the exact same place where President Bush's daughter, Jenna, got busted for underage drinking and fake ID. Jenna's not here this night, but the Margaritas are strong, the food great and the beer cold. I get a Chile Relleno and an Enchilada...smothered in a sauce made from Hatch chiles.
Back at camp, it's a few more beers...a little television...off to bed.
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