Last night, during my bar-hopping tour, I learned that Ururguay has a national sandwich...the "Chivito". It's a slice of grilled tenderloin with ham, cheese, pancetta, onion, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise on a buttered bun. so...last night and this morning, I'm quizzing everyone that I meet as to where to go to get the "best" Chivito. That's what I'm having for lunch.
After breakfast, I head back to the room to shower and change clothes. Then I hike a mile or so from the hotel to Punta del Este's shopping district. The weather is bright and sunny, and the walk along the water is nice. Downtown, there are lots of shops...everything from little souvenir places to a high-end Prada store. I get the obligatory souvenir "package"...ball cap, t-shirt, bumper sticker and refrigerator magnets. I need local currency, so I find an ATM and get $200.00 worth of Uruguayan Pesos. Uruguayans are proud of their currency. Unlike Argentina, where the value of their Peso declines on a daily basis, the value of the Uruguayan Peso is nice and steady. And...no matter where you go (banks, bars, restaurants, shops, etc.), you get the exact same exchange rate for your dollars.
In my quest for the best Chivito, a restaurant called "Guappa" has been mentioned a number of times, so I hike a mile and half or so to the "Port District" for lunch. Guappa is nice...I get a seat outside and order a glass of Torrontes while I review the menu. The choice is pretty easy...a Chivito with "everything" and a half-bottle of Tannat red wine. My Chivito ranks right up there with other great sandwiches that I've enjoyed...cheese steaks, banh mi's, muffalettas, po' boys, etc. Chivitos are big tall "messy" sandwiches that call for a lot of napkins. The first Chivito was "created right here in Punta del Este. Legend has it that a woman from Argentina asked her hotel restaurant for a sandwich with "chivito"...which actually translates to "baby goat". The chef, not having any baby goat, improvised a sandwich that is now known as a Chivito. When I have finished my Chivito and Tannat, I am so stuffed that I can barely finish off a large bowl of dulce de leche ice cream.
After a lunch like that, much walking is in order. So...I hike all over the Port District...stopping now and then for a cold beer. There are three main beers in Uruguay...Pilsen, Patricia and Zillertal. After much "sampling", I've decided that I like Zillertal the best. And, when you order a beer in Uruguay (also Argentina), you get a big one liter bottle that they bring in an ice bucket...nice!
Around 4:00 or so, I hike back to my hotel for a two-hour nap. At 6:30, I shower, change clothes and head for the bar at the Conrad. The bottle of Torrontes from the night before, which I did not finish, is waiting for me behind the bar...a privilege reserved for "guests"...like me. After last night's dining "disaster", I prod my bartender for some better recommendations. He suggests the "market" area in the Port District. It's one major street with lots of bars and restaurants to choose from. Around 8:30, I'm on that street and sitting outside at a nice bar for my first Jack Daniels/hielo/doble of the day. I find a restaurant with a lot of people...I observe plates of food...it looks good. I order a grilled skirt steak, chimichurri, fries, a big salad and a bottle of Malbec. My steak comes out close to medium-rare, and it's good, as is the rest of the meal. After dinner, I resume my bar-hopping tour...enjoying a frosty Zillertal at each stop. I find a club open...I'm hoping for techno, but it's more Uruguayan "Top 40", so I don't stay long.
Before long, I glance at my watch and see that it's past midnight. It's been a long day. Time for a cab back to the hotel...and bed.
No comments:
Post a Comment