Wednesday, May 28, 2014

"Dispatches from the Pampas"...Day21,,,Wednesday, February 26, 2014

My 4:30AM wake up call is most unwelcome...most unwelcome, indeed. I feel like I have not slept at all.
I stagger to the shower, then dress and head downstairs for a morning cigar. It's so early that the hotel cafe is not even open yet...so...no coffee. I schlep my bags downstairs, check out and hail a cab to the port.
I'm the tenth person in line to check in for the ferry so, by 6:35 or so, my bags are checked and I head for the waiting area. Thank God, they have coffee...and pastries. at 7:15, we board, and I grab a "window seat"...unfortunately, the window is so scratched and dirty, I can barely see outside. So much for the view. I walk up one deck to the cafeteria for more coffee and a breakfast sandwich...then back to my seat for a nap. An hour or so later, I wake up feeling a little better. I read for awhile and then walk around the ship. There's not much to see...even through a semi-clean window, the scenery is pretty boring and the water is a muddy brown color.
Shortly before noon, we arrive at the Port of Montevideo. Exiting the ship is easy as is baggage claim. Outside the terminal I hail a cab to head for my rental car office. My Hertz rental is a small Chevy...tiny , but comfortable. After affixing my "Vamos Azul" UM sticker to the back window, I'm off for the town of Punte del Este. For the first hour or so, I don't even use my Garmin...I just keep the water to my right and follow the coastline. Then, the road swings inland a bit for the final hour to Punte del Este. I notice a completely different "vibe" here as compared to Argentina. Here in Uruguay, the pace is much more relaxed...particularly on the highway. I like it.
Around 3:00, I get to Punte del Este and use the Garmin to locate a hotel. I didn't reserve a hotel here in advance...I figured I'd just drive around until I found something. The Garmin leads me to a small hotel about a block from the water...nice. It's comfortable, reasonably-priced and, best of all, it's only a block from a huge flagship Hilton resort...The Conrad. This is one of my favorite travel "tricks"...stay at the "cheapie" place that's close to the big fancy hotel. And, over the next few days, I will enjoy all the benefits of staying at the Conrad (except for a bed) at 1/4th the cost. I'll drink in the Conrad's bars...eat in the restaurants...swim in the pool...seek advice from the concierge...change money...you name it. If you act like a guest, they treat you as a guest.
Around 6:00 or so, I stroll from my "cheapie" hotel over to the Conrad for cocktail hour. There's a nice comfortable wine bar with a friendly bartender who speaks great English. So...I enjoy several glasses of Torrontes and quiz my bartender for a good place to have dinner.
My bartender recommends a seafood place, the name of which I have worked very hard to forget. I have the doorman hail me a taxi for the short trip to the Port area. At the restaurant, everything looks "perfect"...it's crowded (a good sign), comfortable, with a magnificent view of the water. The staff is friendly, and they all speak English. I order a Manhattan, and the bartender "nails" it. There's an awesome sunset. The menu looks good, and I order ceviche, a salad and fried shrimp. And...my food...is...terrible. I have had better meals at Red Lobster (in my younger days). It's so bad that I leave most of it sitting on my plate. I pay my bill and scoot as fast as I can. Down the street, there's a comfortable little bar, so I duck in there for a few beers.
Later, I cab back to the Conrad before meandering back to my own hotel for a good night's sleep.

No comments: