"North to Alaska"...Day 43...Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Man...I have slept like a baby. I woke up once at 4:30, rolled over and immediately went back to sleep. When I roll out of the camper at 8:30, I've slept a full ten hours...and I feel great.
I brew coffee in the French press and enjoy that in some very comfortable 60 degree temperatures. My campground has free showers...so I take a full half hour on that...shave...clean clothes.
I send a few emails to Cousin Bill, but I am concerned because the one I sent last night has been returned because his email service's server is down. I don't have cell phone service yet, so I can't contact him.
Around 11:30, I pull out of the campground and head down the road for the 95 mile drive to Fairbanks. The weather is overcast and the temperature is up to 66 as I roll down the highway...the roads are good.
A little after 1:30, I'm in Fairbanks and head directly to one of my favorite places for ice cream in the world..."Hot Licks". I get a bowl with double chocolate, malted vanilla and grapenuts chip...all really, really good. Then I set off on a semi-successful search for cigars. One place is out of business, another is not where it's supposed to be (according to my Garmin)...the third place is just OK...nothing much good, but I pick up for "Churchills" to replenish my stock.
Not far from Hot Licks, there's a campground...and there I find Cousin Bill! He's OK...just laid up for awhile with a bad cold. I get a campsite close by, and we spend a few hours chatting away. He panned for gold in Chicken, Alaska and got three grams. One of the people who worked for the campground in Chicken got attacked and mauled by a bear...sadly, later shot.
Cousin Bill is laying low, but I am hungry...very hungry. I haven't had a good meal since Dawson City...and tonight, I want Prime Rib.
So...around 5:30, I drive ten miles or so north of Fairbanks to the "Turtle Club"...reportedly serving the best Prime rib in Fairbanks. It's a nice little place...rustic in the "Alaskan style". The gal at the bar mixes a great Manhattan, and I order the 24 oz. "Miner's Cut". It's good, but not great. There is great Prime Rib in Alaska...and I am determined to find it!
After dinner, I head back to Hot licks for a second round...more double chocolate plus malted vanilla. I am stuffed.
Then...back to the campground...a few beers...post to the blog. Now I am ready for bed.
Tomorrow, Cousin Bill and I head 50 miles north to Chena Hot Springs...hot springs, $25.00 campsites, a great lounge, and a very good restaurant. Should be fun.

"North to Alaska"...Day 42...Monday, July 15, 2013

All over the Yukon, it's a beautiful morning...the sun is out and the skies are clear. All over EXCEPT here in Haines Junction. I'm up at 6:30 for my big day, but I slide out of the camper into a heavy drizzle of rain. It's cludy...it's cold...and it's muddy.
I pour some hot coffee from the thermos while I consider my options...I can stay here in Haines...or...I can drive down to the trail head and see if the weather is better...or...I can pack up and head for Alaska.
I opt to head for the trail head...30 miles south on the Haines Highway. As I drive south, the drizzle turns to rain and, at the trail head, it's all mud. Hike...no...not today.
So...I head north to the Alaskan border under cloudy skies. About 50 miles north of Haines, the clouds part and the sun comes out...it's a beautiful day. I motor up the Alaska Highway...around the huge Lake Kluane...onward and upward.
Around noon, I finally reach the border with Alaska and gain an hour when I switch to "Alaska time". Customs at the border is a snap...my customs officer is a UM fan. He asks a single question..."Hey, are we gonna beat those buckeyes this year?" "Hell, yes", I reply. Then I'm motoring down the road...in Alaska...back in the U.S.A. I stop in the town of Tok for gas...hey...a fill up is only $60.00, not $100.00 like in Canada. I give some thought to staying in Tok, but I decide to push on towards Fairbanks. It's been a hot dry summer here in Alaska and, on my drive today, I pass several forest fires (small ones, fortunately). At around 4:30, I'm in Delta Junction...about 95 miles from Fairbanks. There's a nice RV Park, and I pull in there...only $25.00/night...with great Wi-Fi.
I set up camp, enjoy a few beers, chat with some nice folks from Oregon wine country, then head into town for dinner. At the Alaskan Motel and Steakhouse, I have a double Knob Creek on the rocks and order the "special"...chicken-fried steak. The special is good...really good...particularly since I haven't had a really good meal in a restaurant since Dawson City.
Back at camp, I enjoy a few beers in the comfort of 65 degree weather. More beer...some time on the Internet. At 10:30, I turn in for the night. It's about 60 degrees now...I'm looking forward to a great night's sleep.

"North to Alaska"...Day 41...Sunday, July 14, 2013

It's been happening ever since people first arrived up here...the "emptiness...the nights when it never gets dark...the rugged environment...the loneliness. It gets to a person...gets inside their head...and does things.

Cousin Bill has "gone rogue"

But more on that later.

Wow...a good night's sleep, and it's all the way up into the mid-40's when I get up. I still have a Sirius radio signal, so I'm listening to CNN as I make my morning coffee...followed by yoghurt and granola. Then off to another great shower...only 25 cents (cdn) per minute. I splurge for a full $3.00...hey, you only live once.
When I first came up here in 2008, I was on a strict schedule. Iwas meeting my (then) friend, Paul, and his son in Anchorage on a date certain...so I didn't have a lot of time to "linger" in places. When I came upon Kluane National Park, I was truly sorry that I was not able to stop. It's magnificent here...tall ice-capped mountains wrapped around a huge lake that is crystal blue. I said to myself that, if I ever got back up here, I would spend some time at Kluane.
So...now I'm back up here, and I'm spending that time. Today, I drive up the length of the Park...along the mountains, then along the lake. It's just as beautiful as I remember.
In the afternoon, I stop by the Visitor's Center to get hiking information. I want to hike and camp in the Park. The cute Canada Parks gal (who, by the way, is fluent in French) is named Wendy...and she is very helpful. She recommends the St. Elias Lake Trail...only about 9 km...400 meter elevation gain...rated moderate...campground with Pit Toilets...perfect. So, I get a "back country pass" and rent a "bear box" in which to store my food.
Then...it's back to the Kluane Park Inn lounge for a few cold ones and some "local color". There have been some burglaries in town of late, and the list of possible suspects is short...very short. The fact that only vodka and cigarettes were taken further narrows down the "list". A long-time local, Hank, passed away earlier today...most of the town will be at his funeral. I have a nice conversation with the bartender, Debbie, who describes in detail how tough a life it is up here.
At 8:00, I'm back at the campground to make dinner...pasta...gotta load up on carbs for that hike. Several of my fellow campers come over to chat...a nice gut from northern Saskatchewan and a fun couple from Spooner, Wisconsin.
Ah...and Cousin Bill. Well...I'm without communication with him right now...but...he's out here...somewhere.

In any case, around 10:00, I'm settling into the camper for bed. Big hiking day tomorrow.

""North to Alaska"...Day 40...Saturday, July 13, 2013

Man...another absolutely "frigid" morning. I'm out of the camper and right into the Explorer with the heat turned up high. There's no coffee in the thermos and, in this cold, I'm not going outside to make any. So...I drain a 5 Hour Energy and a Starbucks Espresso Double Shot and head out of the campground. Oh...yea...one last visit to the "Pit Toilet". Trust me...you have not experienced life until you've made an early-morning visit to a Pit Toilet in 30 degree weather.
The Dempster is only 44 miles to the main road from the Park, but it takes me a good 1 1/2 hours to make it on the rough gravel road. When I hit the main highway, I find that the gas station there is closed. Now I have a decision to make. My #1 rule of driving up here is never let your tank get below half. If you are at or close to half and there's gas, you fill up. The reason is that gas stations that show up on your Garmin are frequently closed...and "open" stations frequently run out of fuel. And you DO NOT want to run out of gas up here. So...now...do I drive 26 miles back to Dawson to fill up or do I proceed with half a tank 110 miles down the road to Pelly Crossing where my Garmin tells me there's a gas station?
I've got a 420 mile trip today, and I don't want to make a 50 mile "detour", so I proceed on. I'm sweating every mile to Pelly Crossing...but I'm in luck...the station is there, and they have gas. Best of all, it's only 106.00 (cdn) to fill my tank!
After that, it's just hard driving...no sightseeing, no photo stops...just punch out those miles.
Around Carmacks, things get "foggy". There's a major forest fire near there, and it's creating a lot of smoke...I can smell it.
Late in the afternoon, I'm rolling through Whitehorse again...no stops...proceed on 80 miles or so to Haines Junction.
Around 4:00PM or so, I reach the campground in Haines Junction...not much, lots of dirt, but only $25.00/night. Once I set up, I immediately walk a half mile or so up the road to the lounge at the Kluane Park Inn. My friends, Roger and Gretchen, spent a few fun nights there two years ago...and they want me to go back and say hi to their buddies.
And their buddies are still there...at the unique "two-sided" bar. There's Debbie (the bartender), Richard (the artist), the guy with the corncob pipe...and a host of other locals. It's a fun time as most of them remember Roger and Gretchen.
While the bar is fun, the food is not so hot. They have a chef from China, so I order Kung Pao Chicken...big mistake. Anyway, the beer is good.
I linger there until late in the evening...swapping beer with the locals. Then back to the campsite for one last beer. It's been a long day and a long drive.
I'm out like a light.

"North to Alaska"...Day 39...Friday, July 12, 2013

I am finding this hard to comprehend. It is actually COLDER this morning that it was yesterday...the panel display in the Explorer says 29 degrees...in July!
That's where I'm sitting this morning...the Explorer with the heat on full blast...enjoying yesterday's coffee from the Thermos...still hot...sorta.
Like yesterday, it's in the 40's by 10:00. Cold or not, I'm hiking today. The first two or three miles of that 20-mile trail are nice and level through the forest...so that's where I head. It's a nice short and easy hike...no wildlife, but a pretty little creek and some interesting flowers. I've taken my "Pocket Rocket" stove and some "gourmet" ramen for lunch and I cook that on a big rock by the creek...very satisfying (and warming).
Then it's back to camp for the usual drill...gather firewood/kindling...cocktails...leftover penne and the last of the Chianti for dinner.
As the sun sets, there are some interesting things to observe...a halo of colors around the sun (like a rainbow). Later a "vertical" rainbow rising straight up from behind the mountains. And, later still, some really cool cloud formations.
Another fire...but there is just not enough firewood or CatDaddy available to keep me warm out here indefinitely. I had planned to spend another day/night here, but I have changed my mind.
I'm "wimping out". I want to go where it's warm.
So, before bed, I pack up and hitch up. Tomorrow, I've got a "monster" 429-mile drive to Haines Junction and Kluane National Park. Early to bed to get an early start.

"North to Alaska"...Day 38...Thursday, July 11, 2013

When I wake up this morning, it's mighty cold...no...make that freezing. I dash from the camper to the Explorer and get the heat going on high. The display panel in the Explorer indicates that it is 34 degrees!!!
I venture out of the camper several times. Get out the stove...back in the camper. Set up the stove...back in the camper. Grind coffee...back in the camper. Boil water...back in the camper. Brew coffee, pour a cup...back in the camper.
By 10:00, the temperature has risen to 40 degrees (and I've burned through a couple of gallons of expensive Canadian gasoline). I decide that this might be a good day to explore the Park from the comfort (warmth) of my vehicle. So, after some yoghurt and granola for breakfast, I set out to explore.
I stop often and take plenty of photos. I drive all the way up to the northern boundary of the Park...where the mountains start to fall away before the broad plains all the way up to the arctic. By afternoon, the temperature is up in the low 50's, so I stop at a roadside pull-out and have some salami, cheese and triscuits for lunch. Then more driving and more photos.
Late in the afternoon, I'm back at the campground picking up firewood and scavenging for kindling. I enjoy the last few glasses of a nice white wine blend from Oregon. Then I open a bottle of Chianti to enjoy alongside my penne with Marinara sauce and Italian sausage...very satisfying.
Once again, as the sun slips behind the mountains, the temperature starts dropping. So...I start another fire to enjoy before bed. It's not as cloudy as last night, so I'm able to get some nice photos at sunset. That's another great thing about this Park...there's a wonderful interplay between light and shadow. All day and into the evening, the view changes as different peaks are illuminated then bathed in shadow.
Another glass of CatDaddy while I enjoy the fire before bed. Once I leave the comfort of the fire, however, it is cold...really, really cold. And it's the middle of July!
Time for bed before I freeze!

North to Alaska"...Day 37...Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Isleep in this morning until after 8:00AM. I'm heading out of Dawson later to Tombstone Territorial Park, but it's only 70 miles or so...I can take my time.
Last night, Cousin Bill and I discussed sitting down this morning to go over our itineraries since we are splitting up for a couple of days...and heading into areas without cell phone or Wi-Fi service. But, as I'm enjoying my first cup of coffee, Bill drives by...all ready to drive the "Top of the World Highway". He says we'll talk by phone in a couple of days...maybe meet up in Haines Junction...or Tok...or Fairbanks. And then, he's off.
I check out of the campground around 10:30, stop for groceries, and fill up with gas (2/3 of a tank...$80.00...ouch!). About 24 miles out of Dawson, I turn north on the Dempster Highway. This road runs past Tombstone, Eagle Plains, the Arctic Circle...terminating in the arctic village of Inuvik.
Fortunately, I'm only taking it for 44 miles to the Park. It's a tough and unforgiving road...gravel, potholes, "washboards". It's a lot like the Labrador Highway that I drove a few years ago.
It takes me an hour and a half to go those last 44 miles. But, as I get closer to the Park, I remember why I have ofter called this my "favorite" park. The mountains are sharp and angular from the wind and rain. The land here is "sub-arctic tundra"...only a few trees ans lots of vegetation that's about waist deep. In the fall (late August here), that vegetation turns colors like the leaves on our trees at home...and there's a long valley, flanked by mountains, that becomes awash in a sea of colors. That's when I first saw and photographed it back in 2008. On this trip, though, I'm early...everything is still pretty green.
I stop at the new Visitor's Center and get bad news on backpacking. There's only one trail for that...twenty miles to the first "campsite", several thousand foot gain in elevation, and rated "very strenuous". I do know my limitations, and that's WAY beyond them.
So...I head to the campground and set up camp. It never really gets warm at this Park...the high today is only 54 degrees. One thing that I learned from my last visit is that a campfire is a necessity to stay warm at night, rather than a luxury. Accordingly, I stop at the free firewood bins and load up on the few pieces of split wood available (most are big "logs"). Then I set about roaming the campground in search of kindling and tinder...a piece here and a piece there.
I hike for an hour or so close to the campsite before returning for dinner. I have my afternoon Manhattan...grill a flank steak and serve that on a "Spring Greens" salad...enjoy a great bottle of Shiraz.
It's cold and drizzly out, but this makes for a few good photos. I watch the clouds hit the top of a range of mountain peaks...then spill down over the front like milk from a pitcher...very cool.
As the sun sets over the mountains, the temperature drops rapidly (it will get down to the low, very, 30's tonight. So, I dump the coals from my grill in the firepit, put in my tinder and kindling, and top all of that with several pieces of the split wood. In ten minutes or so, I've got a roaring fire. I sit back and enjoy that with a couple of glasses of CatDaddy White Whiskey. It's mighty cold out, but the fire keeps me warm until bedtime.
It's cold in the camper when I climb in...but under my nice down comforter, I'm soon nice and warm.
Lights out.